Basing
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Basing
First figures are painted.
What do you base your figures on? I was thinking 1 pence coins.
Do 1 pence coins also work for mass battles?
What do you base your figures on? I was thinking 1 pence coins.
Do 1 pence coins also work for mass battles?
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Re: Basing
I use 25mm round mdf bases for 28mm figures, and 40mm round for cavalry. I'd rather err on the side of "open order" than have them be too crowded to play with, which was my experience with 20mm squares in Warhammer Fantasy. Your preferences may vary, of course. I know others use smaller bases for line troops, or different size or shape bases to differentiate leaders.
I also have sabot trays to move groups together. Handy for a formation in open ground, but cumbersome in dense terrain. They would probably work well to represent larger formations in a mass battle game.
I also have sabot trays to move groups together. Handy for a formation in open ground, but cumbersome in dense terrain. They would probably work well to represent larger formations in a mass battle game.
Re: Basing
I use 20mm square bases for figures that I may want to use in mass battle rules. Some are 2 figures on a 40x20mm base. I prefer the closer order look for line infantry which it gives.
You could use figures based on 1p coins in sabots for massed battle games though the frontage might be slightly larger than figures on squares in movement trays. Should be easy enough to work around.
John
You could use figures based on 1p coins in sabots for massed battle games though the frontage might be slightly larger than figures on squares in movement trays. Should be easy enough to work around.
John
Re: Basing
1p coins for me. I then use Warbases sabot bases.
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Re: Basing
I play at 15mm, so I base individual troopers on #8 steel washers. My sabot bases are made from magnetic sheet. If I moved up to 28mm, I'd base them on 7/8" fender washers (which is what I do for CoC and Infamy).
Re: Basing
In my 15mm ACW I am using UK 1p pieces for infantry and 2p pieces for foot leaders, cavalry will be on 15 x 25mm rectangles.
I am planning to use 10mm figures for the French and Indian war where I will use bases with multiple figures and a mix of bases to be able to 'make change' as units lose numbers, e.g. 3 figures, 2 figures, 1 figure so an 8 man unit will have 1 x 3 figure, 2 x 2 figures 1x 1 figure. For those I will probably use round bases either washers or plastic counters, though I could go with individual basing like Per Broden has on this post
I am planning to use 10mm figures for the French and Indian war where I will use bases with multiple figures and a mix of bases to be able to 'make change' as units lose numbers, e.g. 3 figures, 2 figures, 1 figure so an 8 man unit will have 1 x 3 figure, 2 x 2 figures 1x 1 figure. For those I will probably use round bases either washers or plastic counters, though I could go with individual basing like Per Broden has on this post
- BaronVonWreckedoften
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Re: Basing
For 25/28mm figures, I use 1p coins for linear rank-and-file infantry and all artillerymen, 2p coins for skirmishers and dismounted leaders/specialists. All mounted on appropriate sabots from Charlie Foxtrot, to allow ease of movement, and maintain formation.
No plan survives first contact with the dice.
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Re: Basing
Why the obsession with sabots?
I use multi-figure bases with small dice holders built into the rear of the base.
This allows much more 'scenic' opportunities on the base and, to my mind at least, looks FAR, FAR better than sabots and individual bases and sabots...
I use multi-figure bases with small dice holders built into the rear of the base.
This allows much more 'scenic' opportunities on the base and, to my mind at least, looks FAR, FAR better than sabots and individual bases and sabots...
Jim Masson
https://jacobite-painting.co.uk
https://jacobite-painting.co.uk
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Re: Basing
For games set in a grander scope, or with smaller scale miniatures, I tend to agree; but for skirmishes, individual basing is more flexible for dense terrain, as well as for playing different rulesets. To me sabots or movement trays are a playability compromise for larger skirmish games like SP that include ranked troops. The 3-2-1 method DaveH brought up is interesting, but I don't plan to multi-base any 28mm figures except for crew-served weapons.Ari Marsson wrote: ↑Thu Aug 06, 2020 5:41 pm Why the obsession with sabots?
I use multi-figure bases with small dice holders built into the rear of the base.
This allows much more 'scenic' opportunities on the base and, to my mind at least, looks FAR, FAR better than sabots and individual bases and sabots...
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Re: Basing
I go with the 3-2-1 method mentioned, as it provides a good compromise that speeds up movement but still allows casualty removal.
Another thing I do is base my minis in a rectangular format (2:3 ratio of frontage to depth for each figure). This reflects the historical reality that line troops stood virtually shoulder to shoulder, but tended to leave a larger gap between ranks unless closing up for static firing by rank.
I also trim off the corners of each base to allow them to fit into slightly tighter terrain spaces.
Leaders are mounted on round coins, which also reflects the historical reality of advancement being based on wealth.
Another thing I do is base my minis in a rectangular format (2:3 ratio of frontage to depth for each figure). This reflects the historical reality that line troops stood virtually shoulder to shoulder, but tended to leave a larger gap between ranks unless closing up for static firing by rank.
I also trim off the corners of each base to allow them to fit into slightly tighter terrain spaces.
Leaders are mounted on round coins, which also reflects the historical reality of advancement being based on wealth.