Munin's First Attempt At WW2 Vehicles

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Munin
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Re: Munin's First Attempt At WW2 Vehicles

Post by Munin » Sat Mar 24, 2018 1:25 am

Progress! My last DAK squad is complete (along with a Forward Observer, an extra Senior Leader, and a PzB 39 team)!

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I still need to put some tufts of dead grass and little camel bushes here and there on their bases, but it feels good to have another entirely painted force for Chain of Command.

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JOHN BOND 001
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Re: Munin's First Attempt At WW2 Vehicles

Post by JOHN BOND 001 » Sat Mar 24, 2018 9:08 am

Nice work Munin
I hope to do DAk and 8th army one day
cheers John

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Tom Ballou
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Re: Munin's First Attempt At WW2 Vehicles

Post by Tom Ballou » Sun Mar 25, 2018 3:23 am

Your first attempts are better than most of my latest attempts. :shock:
--Tom

Never drive a car when you're dead
--Tom Waits "Telephone Call From Istanbul"

WarAdmiral
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Re: Munin's First Attempt At WW2 Vehicles

Post by WarAdmiral » Sun Mar 25, 2018 5:05 am

Great progress Munin! Very nicely done.

Munin
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Re: Munin's First Attempt At WW2 Vehicles

Post by Munin » Sun Mar 25, 2018 5:42 am

Thanks! And to be fair, I've been painting minis for like 30 years. It's just that I'm entirely new to historical minis. All of my prior experience was in sci-fi/fantasy (mostly Warhammer 40K), which isn't particularly known for its realism. But over the past couple of years in particular my skills have really improved, largely because I've pushed myself out of my "base-coat + dry-brush" comfort zone. In all the time I've been in various miniature hobbies, I'd never really weathered a vehicle until I started doing WW2 stuff, which now that I say it sounds crazy. Painting those Black Tree American GIs was the first time I'd used an oil-wash on a mini, and I distinctly remember thinking, "Cripes, why have I never done this before? It's so easy and it looks so good!" I mean, I'd used acrylic washes and inks, but the consistency and sharpness of detail with an oil-based wash is amazing - and you don't even need to add surfactants to eliminate surface tension effects, because the oils don't really have that issue.

Changing games helped too. If I no longer have to worry about painting umpty-bajillion little space men to make a fieldable force, it's easier to take your time, focus, and do a nice job. Chain of Command is nice for this, because you're only ever painting a platoon of guys. That's it, once you have your core platoon, you're pretty much good to go. Infinity (a sci-fi skirmish game) is great for this too, because in that game a fieldable force is generally 10-15 models. Being able to slow down, focus, and really work on individual details is what allowed me to really up my painting game:

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Glaze layering, wet-blending, non-metallic-metals, and whatnot were stuff I'd never pushed myself to try before.

Of course now I need to improve another aspect of my painting, which is that I'm still abysmally slow. :( To that end, I actually tracked the time spent painting this last squad of DAK troops. From sprue to finished, it was 78 minutes per mini on average (24.5 for assembly and base prep, 48 and change for painting, and 5.5 for painting and weathering the bases). That's OK, but I'm going to base-coat my next squad of 8th Army with an airbrush. I think that will greatly improve my speed, though I'm pretty relentless about going back and doing touch-ups so we'll see.

Munin
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Re: Munin's First Attempt At WW2 Vehicles

Post by Munin » Wed May 09, 2018 3:06 am

More tank love!

Late-production (50mm) Panzer III G:
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I mag-mo-tized this one such that it's convertible! Here it is as a short-barreled 75mm Panzer III N, complete with Schürzen:
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Travh20
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Re: Munin's First Attempt At WW2 Vehicles

Post by Travh20 » Wed May 09, 2018 9:47 pm

Good stuff man. Can you tell me more about the oil washes? Are they premade or do you use oil paints and thinners?
Chain of Command video battle reports and more at https://www.youtube.com/user/travh20

Munin
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Re: Munin's First Attempt At WW2 Vehicles

Post by Munin » Wed May 09, 2018 10:26 pm

Travh20 wrote:
Wed May 09, 2018 9:47 pm
Good stuff man. Can you tell me more about the oil washes? Are they premade or do you use oil paints and thinners?
Thanks!

I've used I think three different oil-based products now, and I use them for different things. The first is Tamiya panel wash, which comes in these squarish glass bottles. They come in a variety of colors and the cap has a really nice, finely-pointed brush built into it. It's perfect for doing pin washes of the gaps between panels, or shading rivets, or what have you. The reddish brown one is nice for making creases and recesses look rusty. The consistency on these is super thin, so they run into crevices really well. Make sure you shake them well before use, though, as the pigment has a tendency to settle a bit in the bottle.

The second are MIG "Oilbrushers," which are much thicker. They come in a little tube, and again the cap doubles as a brush. These are what I used to do the grime-streaking and rust-streaking effects on my Shermans. Essentially, you just dab a couple of drops on the top edge. Once it's dry (or mostly dry), you come back with a soft brush loaded with mineral spirits. A couple of quick, downward vertical strokes produces really nice streaking effects. If it's too dark, just swipe it a few more times until it's the desired level of subtle.

The last is the "low tech/low cost" solution to washing/shading figures: MinWax Polyshades stains. For both my DAK dudes and my 8th Army, I used Antique Walnut Gloss. It's almost exactly the same shade as the Army Painter Strong Tone, but it costs like a quarter as much and is available in stupid-large quantities at Home Depot. Some people swear by the "dip" method, but I much prefer to apply it with a brush because it's a) less messy, and b) gives me more control over what gets shaded and by how much. Here's an example of some of my 8th Army painted using this method:

Section:
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Junior Leader:
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Boys AT Rifle team:
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Also, because I'm an obsessive idiot I magnetize my crew members such that I can track casualties without using markers:
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Being a gloss, the MinWax dries incredibly shiny, but a quick hit of Dull-Cote completely removes that effect and gives the mini a nice finish. The gloss is also super durable, and actually does a really good job of protecting the paint underneath. So these guys are literally just base-coat, oil-wash, Dull-Cote. Actually, it's two coats of Dull-Cote, one before the metallics and a quick one after. And being oil-based, you don't have to worry about any of the surface-tension effects you can get with water-based acrylic washes or inks if you're not careful. Cleaning your brush is a little more involved, but I've been working off the same jug of mineral spirits for like a year now.

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Travh20
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Re: Munin's First Attempt At WW2 Vehicles

Post by Travh20 » Thu May 10, 2018 2:49 pm

Nice. I will have to try those top two products you mentioned. I have done the dip with the minwax stain on some tyranids years ago. works great
Chain of Command video battle reports and more at https://www.youtube.com/user/travh20

Munin
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Re: Munin's First Attempt At WW2 Vehicles

Post by Munin » Thu May 10, 2018 3:35 pm

Yeah, I was shocked at how well it worked.

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